Classic car , own .

KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole - 

Pig Bun.. I’m going 33” ATs.. 373 Currie. Th350. With this 327. Would like to go EFI. Before I get too far... What would you recommend for a cam that I could drive everyday?


Semi-tall tires, truck, Team G intake, HUGE carb, 327 inches... man, what ARE you trying to do with this? You've got carb & intake for 3500-7500rpm. That would be a good motor for a Nova, but for a 4x4 truck? EFI will help though, and that intake may work better at lower RPM with EFI.

Daily driver? How much stall are you planning on running? You'd probably be MUCH happier with a 383 or larger motor. That 327 is going to need a fairly small intake lobe duration, to give decent TQ below 3000rpm.

I'm guessing you want to use a hydraulic flat tappet? A hydraulic roller would perform better for you, but be a bit expensive. For a HFT, based on what you've said, the heads, and the possibility of EFI, something like this should work well (for an off the shelf solution)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-364-4


1 Like

ChucksChin -
KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole -

Chuckschin.. any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking of a holly sniper for the truck. I think that NOS set up is too much for a daily driver.

It works great for a daily driver . Get the in tank fuel pump set up . The inline pump below the tank setup will haunt you with fuel pump noise and premature failure unless you put a AN10 size fitting to 3/8 barbed straight from the tank to the Pump . 

I think this will be my next purchase. Thanks for the input. I might hit you up after I buy it.

GHTT_Pig Bun -
KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole - 

Pig Bun.. I’m going 33” ATs.. 373 Currie. Th350. With this 327. Would like to go EFI. Before I get too far... What would you recommend for a cam that I could drive everyday?


Semi-tall tires, truck, Team G intake, HUGE carb, 327 inches... man, what ARE you trying to do with this? You've got carb & intake for 3500-7500rpm. That would be a good motor for a Nova, but for a 4x4 truck? EFI will help though, and that intake may work better at lower RPM with EFI.

Daily driver? How much stall are you planning on running? You'd probably be MUCH happier with a 383 or larger motor. That 327 is going to need a fairly small intake lobe duration, to give decent TQ below 3000rpm.

I'm guessing you want to use a hydraulic flat tappet? A hydraulic roller would perform better for you, but be a bit expensive. For a HFT, based on what you've said, the heads, and the possibility of EFI, something like this should work well (for an off the shelf solution)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-364-4

 


it’s a 0.40 over 327. But if I throw these 1.6 ratio roller rockers on there it should be go from 458-488 lift right? 
 


I was going to call Lunati or someone with the software and see what stall I need. I was thinking 2500-2600. 
 


nevermind that huge carb! I put that on there for looks. I have another small block that’s pretty nasty I bought that for. I plan on using the Holly Sniper EFI kit for this set up. I have other intakes as well.


 


 


the heads are pro comp 199cc 64cc


 


headers with 2.5” all the way out.

ChucksChin - 
GHTT_Pig Bun - ^ Also, Crower has their aluminum rockers on clearance (they are going all stainless, I believe). You can get a set of their 1.6 ratio rockers for $300 shipped (less than half price). Here is a link

https://www.crower.com/clearance/aluminum-rocker-arms-chev-262-400-1-6-7-16.html

That is for a set of 8, you'd have to order 2 of those for a complete set.

Could I get your opinion on a set up I have now and an upgrade I'm thinking about . I have an 85 corvette with the l98 and stock heads but with a edelbrock EPS dual plane intake and Holley sniper . My exhaust is 2.5 dual all the way back to the mufflers . I'm running A Comp 464/470  lift and duarion of 218/224 .  What would be a cam you would recommend if I switched to a set of Brodix 180cc heads . Or are 180cc heads even the best choice ? I don't want to lose bottom end and will rarely spin it past 5,500 rpm . I appreciate any knowledge or advice you give 

 

edit : I'm also running a 2300-2500 torque converter 
 


OK, so an '85 L98 still has a flat tappet cam, correct? Do you have headers?

From what I found, sounds like the Brodix 180's flow better on the intake, but the exhaust side is not really any better than the factory heads. Maybe take a look at the AFR Vortec heads - https://www.airflowresearch.com/190cc-sbc-vortec-cylinder-head/ which would allow the use of your stock valve covers.

A hydraulic roller cam, with those heads, would give a nice boost in power across the board.

Overall, you have a very sensible selection of parts, for your purposes. Maybe consider higher ratio rockers, with either the Brodix or AFR heads, to compliment their additional flow at higher lifts - like the Crowers I mentioned earlier.

I can design an HR cam to match the heads that would tailor the power to your desires. But if you are sticking with a flat tappet cam, then I don't think you can really gain significantly over your current cam (I'm guessing you have the XE262H-14), other than gaining lift via higher ratio rockers.

TKnuckles -
ChucksChin -
KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole -

Chuckschin.. any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking of a holly sniper for the truck. I think that NOS set up is too much for a daily driver.

It works great for a daily driver . Get the in tank fuel pump set up . The inline pump below the tank setup will haunt you with fuel pump noise and premature failure unless you put a AN10 size fitting to 3/8 barbed straight from the tank to the Pump . 

I think this will be my next purchase. Thanks for the input. I might hit you up after I buy it.

  You're absolutely welcome.  Also look into downloading and playing with the free tuning software from Holley on a laptop . The data logging makes it easy to diagnose your own issues . 

TKnuckles - 
GHTT_Pig Bun -
KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole - 

Pig Bun.. I’m going 33” ATs.. 373 Currie. Th350. With this 327. Would like to go EFI. Before I get too far... What would you recommend for a cam that I could drive everyday?


Semi-tall tires, truck, Team G intake, HUGE carb, 327 inches... man, what ARE you trying to do with this? You've got carb & intake for 3500-7500rpm. That would be a good motor for a Nova, but for a 4x4 truck? EFI will help though, and that intake may work better at lower RPM with EFI.

Daily driver? How much stall are you planning on running? You'd probably be MUCH happier with a 383 or larger motor. That 327 is going to need a fairly small intake lobe duration, to give decent TQ below 3000rpm.

I'm guessing you want to use a hydraulic flat tappet? A hydraulic roller would perform better for you, but be a bit expensive. For a HFT, based on what you've said, the heads, and the possibility of EFI, something like this should work well (for an off the shelf solution)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-364-4

 


it’s a 0.40 over 327. But if I throw these 1.6 ratio roller rockers on there it should be go from 458-488 lift right? 
 


I was going to call Lunati or someone with the software and see what stall I need. I was thinking 2500-2600. 
 


nevermind that huge carb! I put that on there for looks. I have another small block that’s pretty nasty I bought that for. I plan on using the Holly Sniper EFI kit for this set up. I have other intakes as well.


 


 


the heads are pro comp 199cc 64cc


 


headers with 2.5” all the way out.


Correct on the lift with the 1.6's.

If you are going to call somebody about stall speed, call the converter company. I personally like Hughes. You've got a smaller motor, with fairly large (for your application) heads, so you won't be making a lot of torque below 3,000rpm. As such, the "stall speed" you'll actually see will be a bit lower than advertised.

I had a similar motor, a long time ago, with a "3000" stall. It actually only stalled a bit past 2700rpm. The advertised stall is just an estimate - lower TQ motors will get less stall out of it, higher TQ motors will stall higher. REALLY powerful motors can "blow through" the converter and it won't stall at all!

I'd say a Hughes GM25 at least for you, and maybe their GM30 if you want best performance, but the 25 will probably be better for daily driving.

That CompCam 12-364-4 I mentioned will be hard to beat. And it will give you a bit over .500" lift with the 1.6 rockers, making better use of your heads.

GHTT_Pig Bun -
ChucksChin - 
GHTT_Pig Bun - ^ Also, Crower has their aluminum rockers on clearance (they are going all stainless, I believe). You can get a set of their 1.6 ratio rockers for $300 shipped (less than half price). Here is a link

https://www.crower.com/clearance/aluminum-rocker-arms-chev-262-400-1-6-7-16.html

That is for a set of 8, you'd have to order 2 of those for a complete set.

Could I get your opinion on a set up I have now and an upgrade I'm thinking about . I have an 85 corvette with the l98 and stock heads but with a edelbrock EPS dual plane intake and Holley sniper . My exhaust is 2.5 dual all the way back to the mufflers . I'm running A Comp 464/470  lift and duarion of 218/224 .  What would be a cam you would recommend if I switched to a set of Brodix 180cc heads . Or are 180cc heads even the best choice ? I don't want to lose bottom end and will rarely spin it past 5,500 rpm . I appreciate any knowledge or advice you give 

 

edit : I'm also running a 2300-2500 torque converter 
 


OK, so an '85 L98 still has a flat tappet cam, correct? Do you have headers?

From what I found, sounds like the Brodix 180's flow better on the intake, but the exhaust side is not really any better than the factory heads. Maybe take a look at the AFR Vortec heads - https://www.airflowresearch.com/190cc-sbc-vortec-cylinder-head/ which would allow the use of your stock valve covers.

A hydraulic roller cam, with those heads, would give a nice boost in power across the board.

Overall, you have a very sensible selection of parts, for your purposes. Maybe consider higher ratio rockers, with either the Brodix or AFR heads, to compliment their additional flow at higher lifts - like the Crowers I mentioned earlier.

I can design an HR cam to match the heads that would tailor the power to your desires. But if you are sticking with a flat tappet cam, then I don't think you can really gain significantly over your current cam (I'm guessing you have the XE262H-14), other than gaining lift via higher ratio rockers.

Shorty block huggers , Yep that's the exact cam I'm running and will happily switch to a roller cam once I get some good heads . I've been trying to learn a ton more about cams and Cylinder heads in general and binging Richard Holdener on YouTube . Thank you for taking the time , much appreciated 

C.C.,

The Cliff's notes on heads - CFM / port CC's - the bigger the better. That is, a 200cfm/170cc (1.17) head is going to perform better (usually) than a 200cfm/210cc (.95) head.

For pump gas naturally aspirated V-8 motors, using streetable camshafts, you can roughly make about 2hp/cfm if ALL parts are selected properly and the motor well-tuned. Now, if the heads flow 250cfm @ .600", but you are only getting to around .500" lift, then you will fall far short of 500hp. Most people are doing good to get 1.5hp/cfm, and the "Gods" can pull out some amazing numbers (but those are NOT "daily drive" motors).



A LOT of the camshaft information on the internet is only accurate within a VERY constrained set of limits. It's the Wild Wild Fucking West, once you get outside those limits!

Here is my simplified cam lesson: Picture the torque curve. The curve will raise and expand as the intake duration @ .050" valve lift increases, until a certain point.

Once you reach that "point", the curve will develop a pivot point at some RPM. As the intake duration increases, you will LOSE TQ below that pivot, while gaining on the other side.

DIMINISHING RETURNS: At first, you'll just lose a little off the low end, while making nice gains on the top. But keep going, and you will lose a LOT of low, while making very little more on top.

Intake duration @ 0.050" is THE most critical item to consider. LSA is the LEAST critical.

GHTT_Pig Bun -
TKnuckles - 
GHTT_Pig Bun -
KHABIBsandBLASTEDmyBUTThole - 

Pig Bun.. I’m going 33” ATs.. 373 Currie. Th350. With this 327. Would like to go EFI. Before I get too far... What would you recommend for a cam that I could drive everyday?


Semi-tall tires, truck, Team G intake, HUGE carb, 327 inches... man, what ARE you trying to do with this? You've got carb & intake for 3500-7500rpm. That would be a good motor for a Nova, but for a 4x4 truck? EFI will help though, and that intake may work better at lower RPM with EFI.

Daily driver? How much stall are you planning on running? You'd probably be MUCH happier with a 383 or larger motor. That 327 is going to need a fairly small intake lobe duration, to give decent TQ below 3000rpm.

I'm guessing you want to use a hydraulic flat tappet? A hydraulic roller would perform better for you, but be a bit expensive. For a HFT, based on what you've said, the heads, and the possibility of EFI, something like this should work well (for an off the shelf solution)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-364-4

 


it’s a 0.40 over 327. But if I throw these 1.6 ratio roller rockers on there it should be go from 458-488 lift right? 
 


I was going to call Lunati or someone with the software and see what stall I need. I was thinking 2500-2600. 
 


nevermind that huge carb! I put that on there for looks. I have another small block that’s pretty nasty I bought that for. I plan on using the Holly Sniper EFI kit for this set up. I have other intakes as well.


 


 


the heads are pro comp 199cc 64cc


 


headers with 2.5” all the way out.




Correct on the lift with the 1.6's.

If you are going to call somebody about stall speed, call the converter company. I personally like Hughes. You've got a smaller motor, with fairly large (for your application) heads, so you won't be making a lot of torque below 3,000rpm. As such, the "stall speed" you'll actually see will be a bit lower than advertised.

I had a similar motor, a long time ago, with a "3000" stall. It actually only stalled a bit past 2700rpm. The advertised stall is just an estimate - lower TQ motors will get less stall out of it, higher TQ motors will stall higher. REALLY powerful motors can "blow through" the converter and it won't stall at all!

I'd say a Hughes GM25 at least for you, and maybe their GM30 if you want best performance, but the 25 will probably be better for daily driving.

That CompCam 12-364-4 I mentioned will be hard to beat. And it will give you a bit over .500" lift with the 1.6 rockers, making better use of your heads.

Ok awesome. Then that’s what I will buy. I mean, I have the money.. So what would you recommend on a hydraulic roller set up?


 


Thank you btw. This is cool af.

GHTT_Pig Bun - C.C.,

The Cliff's notes on heads - CFM / port CC's - the bigger the better. That is, a 200cfm/170cc (1.17) head is going to perform better (usually) than a 200cfm/210cc (.95) head.

For pump gas naturally aspirated V-8 motors, using streetable camshafts, you can roughly make about 2hp/cfm if ALL parts are selected properly and the motor well-tuned. Now, if the heads flow 250cfm @ .600", but you are only getting to around .500" lift, then you will fall far short of 500hp. Most people are doing good to get 1.5hp/cfm, and the "Gods" can pull out some amazing numbers (but those are NOT "daily drive" motors).



A LOT of the camshaft information on the internet is only accurate within a VERY constrained set of limits. It's the Wild Wild Fucking West, once you get outside those limits!

Here is my simplified cam lesson: Picture the torque curve. The curve will raise and expand as the intake duration @ .050" valve lift increases, until a certain point.

Once you reach that "point", the curve will develop a pivot point at some RPM. As the intake duration increases, you will LOSE TQ below that pivot, while gaining on the other side.

DIMINISHING RETURNS: At first, you'll just lose a little off the low end, while making nice gains on the top. But keep going, and you will lose a LOT of low, while making very little more on top.

Intake duration @ 0.050" is THE most critical item to consider. LSA is the LEAST critical.

That makes a lot of sense . Thank you again 

^ & ^^ you guys are welcome.


Knuckles, I'm guessing these are the heads you have - http://www.racerworld.com/viewItem.cfm?IK=7777
The flow numbers keep rising nicely to over .600" valve lift. To get the MOST of those heads, I'd want to shoot for a valve lift in the .600 to .640" range, with an HR cam. With that, you'd probably need to take the heads to a shop, and have the proper valve springs installed (along with testing and setting the springs to proper values).

You MIGHT need 1.7 ratio rockers on the intake, to get those lifts with rather mild intake durations, though.

With a high lift HR cam, we can make more top-end power with less duration. And the lower duration will give more low-end TQ.

Looking at what is on the shelf, this is about the best offering I see - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10185071/make/chevrolet
It is a bit soft on lift, though. For not a whole lot more $, I could design something custom. Not a lot of higher lift lobes with short duration, though, so may have to settle for .550"ish lift.


These are the heads. Pic is fucked up. I really appreciate this. I’m at casino and will respond correctly when I get home. Thanks again!

This is what I love about the OG.  Ask a question and more times than not there are guys on here with very high level knowledge of that topic.  Awesome.

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Samoa -

This is what I love about the OG.  Ask a question and more times than not there are guys on here with very high level knowledge of that topic.  Awesome.

Agree

Stupidnewbie -

1968 Olds 442 I bought my dad.


Love those!

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Nice

best one so far

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