Covering for mats?

Hey, neckcrank, do you get any tears at all in yours? If so, what do use to fix them with. THat is the only problem we have using them with no cover, is small tears starting to happen.

I've been using poly tarps for about 5 years on my
home-made mat, and it's not that bad. I would imagine
that it could get pretty slippery if it was stretched tight
like a drum-skin, but mine have always been a bit loose. I
just folded the edges under the foam and duct taped it all
along the bottom edge to hold it in place.

My mat is built up layers of carpet under-lay, and it just
sits on the floor. Three layers of high density underlay
approximates the give of a wrestling mat without being so
spongy that it affects your foot-work and foot-speed.

I've posted the step-by-step procedure for building a mat
like I use, but I don't have it on my HD anymore. I have
it printed somewhere.

If anyone wants it here, I can look for it, but the foam
Sifu is talking about would be a better route than
underlay. Underlay is cheap though...I Built a 24x24 for
about $350 Cd.

...

all your peoples ideas are not for the health and well being of us as people so get you head out of your butt and be smart i like being healthy.cheek out my caution thead.later

search marine upolsetry this is the only way to get protective vinal.if you search anything else it will give you the run around.

I never in a million years would have expected someone to show up and be insulting and "know-it-all" on a thread like THIS. I tell ya, it boggles the mind.

Sambussell, you sound like we're a bunch of predators looking to cut corners and deliberately spread disease or something. Here's why we're all looking for cheap alternatives: TRAINING IS EXPENSIVE ENOUGH. Those of us who run home gyms spend a TON of money just for gear and such (and homeowners insurance). I don't charge people to train with me, I just ask that they chip in a few bucks on equipment. WHY should I expect those people to shell out a ton of cash to buy professionally made mats when we can come up with inexpensive alternatives that offer the exact same protection?

A bleach/water solution will keep the surface clean and free of cooties. I have to wonder if you've ever trained at all, considering that's all anyone uses to clean factory-made mats, too.

In short, this thread is about ideas for home gyms and small schools. It's about exchanging ideas. It's about finding inexpensive alternatives to spending thousands of dollars on flooring. And we're ALL grapplers, so the health concern was already built in to the conversation without your "insights," thank you. Now go insult people somewhere else. This thread is for constructive posts only.

Shooter: Exactly, or if not, you can pick up mat guard type stuff. Stuff you mix with water when you mop the mats.

One of those sponge kitchen mops and a pail of
water/bleach 3:1 once or twice a week (depending on frequency of use) keeps everyone except
Howard Hughes from getting the creeps. :-)

Keep a spray bottle handy with the same 3:1
water-to-bleach for any blood that gets spilled, latex
medical gloves, and a clean cloth to dry it with.

I've never had anyone get ringworm, staph, etc. Most of
that is avoided by keeping fingernails and toenails
trimmed short, and don't let people pick their toes, nose,
scabs,..well, you get the idea.

A modicum of personal hygiene (wash your feet and
hands) on everyone's part prior to training goes a long
way in prevention.









I cant believe you people tring to cut cost its sick and very unheathly. i am a tatoo artist and very familular with microorginizims such as staph ring worm all fungal viral. and if you dont use the vinal.you are exposing every body to them.and you guys dont think it is a big deal but it is a very big deal do some research.be healthy im not making a dime of any of this and it is my time.so go a head and bash me.its cool.i wount hate you.just be smart about infection and stuff and research. all of you are health concious

giddyup

Call Davis Athletic Mats Chicago Il
708-563-9006 ask for Jerry
This is a mat factory ,,they have the covers you need,,any size made to order,,,very reasonable.
I have them in my gym!

Mike,

We used to use a swimming pool cover to cover our mats they worked out great.

Travis Phippen

Go to Menards or any other home improvement super store, look for PVC tarps. Figure out how much surface area you have to cover, and get enough to cover. You'll probably have to buy more than one. Here's the trick, you'll need to join two or more to have enough. Buy contact cement, and use it to bond the two or more sections together. Make sure and cut the gromets off the sides your joining and also make sure the pieces overlapp atleast a foot. You might want to buy more gromets to get a good stretch over your padding. This sounds funny for a covering but it works great. We use it every week in our weekly fights in the cage! good luck.

HEY YOU SHOULD ALL FEEL SAFE TO KNOW THAT YOUR TATTOO ARTIST IS SOAKING NEEDLELS AND TIPS IN PURE BLEACH NOT AUTOCLAVING .AND YOU DOCTERS AND SURGENS USING BLEACH TO STERILIZE.HA I DONT WANT THAT DOCTER NOR TATTOO ARTIST ON ME WELL ANY WAY HAVE A NICE DAY.OYEA IV BEEN ON THE MAT JUST LEARNED A MOVE FROM mr.KNAGGS THAT HE LEARNED FROM( SALO) I KNOW A BUNCH OF RRO FIGHTERS.ANY WAYS WHEN I BUILD A MAT FOR MR.GOMEZ IT WILL BE RIGHT .TTY TEAM GOMEZ!!!!TTT DAVE (KILLER) KNAGGS.TTT-THE FIGHT ZONE IN THE GLASS CITY.(TOLEDO,OHIO)

Hey, that's another solid idea! Thanks, Travis. how've you been, by the way? Long time no see. :)

Fighting Jerome is correct, PVC tarp has worked excellent. For about $70 you can pick up a 10 x 10 piece with grometts and it has a rubbery surface that is perfect for rollin'. It also comes in a dark grey that looks kick ass - Victory Jay

I've been doing great. Always looking for events to participate in. I comentated for the Kansas state wrestling tournament. Look for it on Public TV in the near future. I will be giving my expert advice. ha ha.

Travis Phippen

SHOOTER,

i will check my files, i may have it saved and can save u the trouble.

continued...

STEP-4:

Once you have all the layers glued in place, cover the tarp
with a thick layer of cement first so that it can get tacky
while you spread glue on the top layer of underlay. fly
the tarp into place and roll a heavy-bag or something
similar across it to get the air out from between the tarp
and the underlay (work from the center outward).

NOTE - If you don't have a heavy-bag, roll yourself
around. :-) You'll probably need someone to help fly the
tarp into place by taking opposite corners at the far end
of the tarp and flipping it over as you walk along
opposite sides of the mat. It's best to have the tarp lined
up beside the underlay with about 2 feet of the tarp slid
under it. Once the tarp is dried to the underlay, flip over
the outer 3 feet or so and tape the tarp to the bottom of
the mat one edge at a time.

CAUTION - When spreading the glue, work from the
center outward. don't use solvent-based contact cement -
Make sure it's water-based. A squeegee works best for
spreading the glue, but any long (about 12 inches)
straight-edge will do.

....DONE....


You can use more than 3 layers of medium or high
density, but your mat will be too spongy to train
Vale-Tudo sparring. 3 layers is good for doing
striking/stand-up grappling and ground-work as it
approximates the firmness and give of wrestling and
puzzle mats, but you'll still be able to hurt your elbows
and knees if you impact too hard. If it's going on concrete,
use 4 layers regardless. You can fold it in half for
practicing high-amp throws and slams if you make it big
enough, or you can build a smaller, second mat and double
up for practicing that stuff.

High density underlay is better than medium, but more
expensive. Only buy new underlay. The tarp will wear
thin after 4 - 6 months depending on how much you use
it. When you have to recover your mat, flip it over and
glue a new tarp to the bottom-side (my mat has like 4
tarps glued to each side of it).
...

Hy, went through my notebooks last night and found the
copy. Thanks anyway brother. :-)

Here's the step-by-step to making a fairly decent
wrestling mat:


You can buy rubber carpet underlay at any carpet dealer.
It comes in different densities and weights, and is
available in 6 ft x 100 ft rolls. 3 layers of medium or high
density is decent for ground-work and can be used for
throws if your tumbling and break-falls are good.


Decide what size of a mat you want and multiply your
square foot requirements by 3. eg. 12x12 = 144 sq. ft - x
3 layers = 432 sq ft. In other words, you'll need six runs
of underlay cut in 12 foot lengths.


MATERIALS LIST:


-Carpet underlay

-Heavy-duty polyetylene tarp at least 2 feet longer and
wider than your finsihed mat size. For a 12x12, you'll
need a 16x16 tarp.


-Water-based contact cement (one gallon is enough to
cover about 300 square feet) For a 12x12, two gallons will
be more than enough. (always make sure you have more
glue than you'll need)


-Several rolls of duct tape


-Exacto-knife/box-cutter or sharp kitchen scissors


-Tape measure


-Carpenter's chalk-line and a bottle of chalk


STEP-1:

Roll out the underlay and measure it to length. Mark it
along both edges at the lengths you need, and snap chalk
lines across each peice so that your cuts are square.
Pre-cut all pieces.

STEP-2:

Lay out the pieces that will make up the first layer, and
place them edge to edge. Duct tape the edges together by
first running a strip of tape along the length of each edge
to reinforce them and a third strip down the center of the
seam. Once you've done that you now have the
first/bottom layer of your mat.

STEP-3:

Flip the first layer overr so that the taped seams are face
down on the floor. Have your second and third layers
ready to put into place. Spread contact cement over the
top of the first layer, and the bottoms of each length of
underlay that will make up the second layer. Only wet
down one length at a time and put it in place before doing
the next. If you put each length in place while the glue is
still wet, you'll be able to move them around if you have
to. If you let the glue dry first (as instructed on the can of
cement), you'll have to be very accurate in putting the
pieces in place because the glue sticks permanantly on
contact. It's best to work quickly.


Note - If you're working with big pieces, get someone to
help you lift and fly them into place. Each l;ayer should
be placed on the bias (cross-hatched) to the other layers.

..

ttt