I live in central Ohio and will be replacing/widening my current asphalt driveway. We have concrete sidewalks and driveway approach, as well as a concrete walkway from the driveway to front door.
What are the pros/cons of asphalt vs concrete? It seems the majority here are asphalt but the concrete driveways are not uncommon. Does one hold up better in an area that truly has all 4 seasons?
I think that having an all concrete driveway/sidewalk/approach/walkway to the house would look pretty nice. However I also want the most durable option for long term. 
I think concrete is superior but more expensive. I'll admit I don't know much about it however.
concrete is better but more expensive but if you live in town and have a small driveway and live in a decent neighborhood, I would go with concrete.
asphalt in Ohio. Concrete will get much slicker with ice and snow. Asphalt will heat up better in winter to melt ice and snow.
I have no idea, but nice jugs
cruedi - asphalt in Ohio. Concrete will get much slicker with ice and snow. Asphalt will heat up better in winter to melt ice and snow.
that doesn't matter, in Minnesota, concrete would still be the preferred surface
can I add on a question to this?
I have a concrete driveway from the 90s.
It is cracked and the topcoat is missing in some spots so it isnt smooth.
Can i get it coated or something or will i need to have it removed and a whole new concrete drive poured?
Luncha Libre -Concrete will crack, ess normal. They make all kinds of sealants for concrete. Not necessary unless you are using a lot of chemical de-icing agents, but may prolong the life of it. Concrete actually gets harder over time. Most concrete fails due to improper subgrade.
can I add on a question to this?
I have a concrete driveway from the 90s.
It is cracked and the topcoat is missing in some spots so it isnt smooth.
Can i get it coated or something or will i need to have it removed and a whole new concrete drive poured?
If OP decides to replace his asphalt drive, he will likely have to replace his subgrade as well. The wife's tits are nice, but a picture of your actual driveway would help determine the most cost effective solution. Also, concrete lasts about 20-40 years, asphalt surface requires more maintenance and probably has a 5-10 year life span in your climate. That's if is its installed correctly.
Thanks Sugarfoot
the previous owner pressure washed the drive so much at such a high power a ten foot area has no smooth top coat and is embedded gravel. it sucks for my kid to ride his skateboard or scooter on.
Luncha Libre -Boobies!!!!Cecil - Shit of wife's tits for your troubles. Rules are rules!
http://imgur.com/B9I3P1j
Sugarfoot -I didn't consider replacing the subgrade. That makes the asphalt option much more appealing price wise.Luncha Libre -Concrete will crack, ess normal. They make all kinds of sealants for concrete. Not necessary unless you are using a lot of chemical de-icing agents, but may prolong the life of it. Concrete actually gets harder over time. Most concrete fails due to improper subgrade.
can I add on a question to this?
I have a concrete driveway from the 90s.
It is cracked and the topcoat is missing in some spots so it isnt smooth.
Can i get it coated or something or will i need to have it removed and a whole new concrete drive poured?
If OP decides to replace his asphalt drive, he will likely have to replace his subgrade as well. The wife's tits are nice, but a picture of your actual driveway would help determine the most cost effective solution. Also, concrete lasts about 20-40 years, asphalt surface requires more maintenance and probably has a 5-10 year life span in your climate. That's if is its installed correctly.
If you want me to run a couple of estimates on materials I would be happy too. Just give me the overall dimensions, length and width.
Pavers>Concrete>Asphalt
I went with concrete, as it was just more applicable to my needs and more cost effective.
I never thought about pavers, I imagine that would be really pricey.
The salt in winter will break down the concrete.
Gents, I have done both for many years...
- A paver alone will cost you an extra 500-1500.
- Asphalt is not as durable as concrete, but much more elegant and fine.
- You could easily hire a hispanic crew (since in OH) for concrete at a much cheaper cost.
- Concrete trucks will run about 100$+ each, 9 yards each. Should only take 4-5 workers to finish the project. 2 finishers, 2 laborers min.
- Paving will need a paver driver, 2 paving screw runners, 1-2 loot men, one roller operator. Asphalt trucks may run you 200+.
Its totally up to you as to where to go with what you want. Concrete wil be cheaper. But if you get a crew who knows what the fuck they're doing, you should get nice results.
As for Luncha Libre....they now are supplying high powered grout that would definitley suit your needs to patch the busted up crete in your drive. You just may need to chisel out a square or circle to ensure better patching.
I'm a GC and I'd never recommend a concrete driveway for any residential project.
there are so many things that can be done wrong that will cause you major, expensive headaches in a few short years.
if for whatever reason you do want to do it. If you want it done right, be prepared to spend a lot of money. Here is a list of some of the important things to consider.
the prep
The make up of the subgrade
the temperature of the subgrade and the air temp. Not just when you pour but for the week or so after. if it's too cold, you shouldn't pour or you need to cover and insulate. If it's too hot or too dry, you should do a wet cure.
The design of the steel reinforcement and how it is installed The thickness of the slab and the pattern/size of control joints
The mix, meaning the strength, the size of the aggregate, the slump and any additives
Some additives are expensive but if I was doing my driveway, I'd absolutely use some. There are hardeners, densifiers, waterproofers etc.. Then you need a very good form crew and a finisher.
depending on the additives used, you may need a sealer or an applied densifier. Good densifiers should be professionally installed.
A structural engineer should design the whole thing if you want it done right.
even when everything is done perfect, concrete will crack. The only way to completely get rid of the crack is to sawcut and remove the entire section (between joints) where the crack is. then you have to dowel in new steel and repour. fat chance getting the colors and finish to match too.
Asphalt is the way to go. the prep is very important as is temperature etc.. but it's much less forgiving and much less expensive to install or repair. the better the prep of the subgrade, the better your pave job will be and the longer it will last. don't let them go to thin on the asphalt. Homeowners get burnt by that all the time.