Guitar Nut replacements. TME

Aktually, it’s really for my MIA P-Bass. The nut needs replacement because the previous owner asshole carved out the A string nut groove too much. Maybe he was using super heavy guage or something, I’m using Medium Lebella body through flatts and there’s still wiggle room, about the amount of a pick. ( I don’t use one of those heathen tools personally )

Anyfuckinway, when I bend the A string it makes an annoying click when it shifts at the nut, so I want to replace it. I keep seeing synthetic bone materials like micarta.

It’s not a vintage ax but has fake bone been the standard or real bone nuts?

Fake bone or real bone? That’s the question.

ATTENTION: Guitar Squirrels

I need a nut

Drums Eye Roll GIF

Bone or a graphtech nut. You can repair a slot thats cut too deep though. You need some nut powder and model superglue. Stewmac makes the nutpowder

I think graphtech is fine. A good shop may be able to fix it. I’m guessing replacing the nut with a setup would cost you around $150. I’d personally just do that probably.

1 Like

I replaced my Tele nut with a graphtech. I did a lot of measurements with calipers first to find the best replacement fit, and ordered that. It was a nearly a perfect fit. Correct string spacing and height, fit snugly into the slot. Only thing is it extended just a bit beyond the slot to the sides so I need to sand the ends in just a bit.

The original nut had one slot cut too deep and the string was buzzing.


I found someone to do the fret work you all talked me out of doing myself. I’ll see if he can repair the nut while he’s already under the hood. I was thinking about picking up a real bone one but if he’s able to fix it without any obvious glue and shit, I’ll go that route.

The Squire you all recommended (60’s Classic Vibe) is going out of tune pretty often. I even threw in two more tremolo springs bringing it to 5 springs total. It still has the stock springs though. What are some nice guitar strings for a ‘strat’? (longevity and staying in tune)

Dig the avatar, bro. I listened to 2112 last night and for the first time focused on Alex’s playing. He had his work cut out for him playing with the other two but he had a great sound that I imagine would be pretty fucking hard to emulate. He’s most definitely an underrated player but those who know know.

1 Like

Yep I’d definitely have a good luthier do it & have it done right the first time.

1 Like

For sure. I saw a $100 p-bass clone online that I’d still be reluctant to file myself.

But after finally getting a MIA P-bass for the stable the frets are like a cheese grater compared to my 84’ Rickenbacker. I really do like it though and love the sound Just looking to have it tweeked a bit. I heard a lot of smack about the pups but I really have no idea why.

1 Like

So what are some string recs, bro? (strat)

Oh man, unfortunately I’m not the one to ask, I’m not picky & will get whichever name brand is on sale. Usually Ernie Ball. I swap them semi often & just a hobbyist.

No sweat, I know the name. Probably can’t go wrong with any of the name brands. I might just have the guy who’s doing my bass do the guitar as well and throw some new strings on it. I’m keeping the strings on my bass. They were hard to come by and I had to buy a 5 string set at that.

1 Like

Super glue and baking soda. By the sound of it , that’s all it needs. Simple , easy.
Stew Mac has a short video on YouTube.
I fucked a good jap strat doing a re fret. It’s do able . . Glue the chip outs back , be careful. Re crown with a jewlers file after drawing the fret with a sharpie to bring to a point. Dress the frets with a block and sandpaper. Finnish with a quick rub of sandpaper free hand.


Most tuning issues are from the nut. The nut slots may need to be lubed or slightly re-slotted. First thing I’d try is get a simple #2 pencil, loosen the strings so you can move them out of the nut slots and then “color” back and forth in the nut slots with the pencil to get some graphite in there to lubricate the nut. When you’re done, simply put the strings back in the slots and tune up.

I usually do this every string change on most of my guitars. It’s important to really stretch your strings well when you change them too. After changing strings, I recommend bending notes up and down the neck. The string will go way out of tune. Re-tune and keep doing this until the string stops going out of tune from the bends. Then move onto the next string and repeat. It will add an extra 15 minutes or so onto your string changes, but your guitar will stay in tune much better.


Ha ha didnt even make the bass connection until just now

If you’re using the whammy bar you’re going to have tuning issues at the best of times.
The springs won’t make much difference.
Stretch the string’s.
Lube the nut with a pencil as another poster said. Probably the most common place for an issue to occur is the machine heads ( tuners).
You can usually tighten them with a screw driver if necessary. ( Don’t over do it). But theirs also a way to string the guitar where you can lock the string off ( YouTube it ).
If you’re bridge is floating get used to constantly tweaking it. They’re a pain in the ass by nature. As you tighten a string it loosens the rest. You have to really kind of get in the guitar’s head to keep it well serviced .
If you don’t use the whammy bar just tighten all the springs and make it a fixed bridge. That will improve the serviceability by 5-10x.
It could be coming from the bridge. Anything that moves could ( and will at some point) be the issue, including the neck.

Ps. If you’re doing any kind of re fret , use the hardest frets available ie. Stainless steel.