Concur with Bankable: start with the basics and label all your lines and create a drawing.
Lol yeah that’s the problem I don’t really know enough about it to know what I’m
Looking at with these lines, where they go etc. I do know that I didn’t have this problem with water pressure before. Only changes I’ve made is a pvc repair and I turned those valves in the video. That valve above the water heater feels funky, like it’s loose or turns too many times. They are ok’d I’m considering draining the lines again and just replacing all the valves to rule it out
The pressure switch is attached to the pump
Turns too many times?
Since I did not watch the video, I am assuming it is a gate valve? Not a quarter turn ball valve.
if it is a gate valve and it feels funky then the gate could be detached from the stem. that might make sense as to why your pump runs, develops 60 psi and you have no water. If the gate is just barely open a bit then its enough to let enough water through to not build enough pressure to shut the pump off. But not open enough to get water to the fixtures in a reasonable amount of time.
When you turn on the pump, can you go to some of the fixtures in the house and possibly hear a little water/air moving.
Yes it’s a gate valve right above the water heater that’s source comes from the pressure side of the pump, before the T there is another gate valve. They both feel completely different , one turns maybe a 1/2 turn to close or open, the other one takes 2-3 full rotations, plus I see a little corrosion. With the pump on nothing comes out of the faucets but I didn’t listen
How hard are those gate valves to replace? Can I just replace the insides or do I need to cut it out and have it resoldered? What about shark bites? I figured if it’s easy why not just replace them
so its a metal valve on copper pipe?
Have you ever sweated copper before?
Its not hard, but it might be worth having someone do it if you dont have the tools.
I would put in a quarter turn ball valve in its place.
Did you confirm that you dont have a bypass around the pump?
Yeah I’m good at soldering wire From what I’ve read it’s the same concept, flux it and apply heat until it absorbs. I see no bypass, one line in, one line out it seems
well, whatever you do, i would throw in a bypass.
water at 30 psi is better than no water.
The first gate valve fixed it! It got stuck in a mostly closed position! Thank you guys so much for your help and guidance… talking this out with me really helped and I learned a lot. Seriously thank everyone for taking your time out to give me information and opinions
Finally, now go have a shower stinky.
The pressure is dope! But the pump has been running nonstop since I started it… setting the pressure in the wel flo tank to 28 I have no clue if that’s right… pretty sure that pump shouldn’t be running for ten minutes like it is
Yeah so I’m looking at the contacts on the pressure switch as I flip the breaker and the pump turns on… the contacts do not open as I turn the breaker off… I’m
Going to assume that means I need a pressure switch?
pump should run whenever, and for as long as you have water running in the house.
The pressure in the tank should be something in the 60-80 psi range.
Yeah but I never saw it turn off for like 20 minutes… shouldn’t the contacts open when the breaker is off? Like maybe that was the original problem, it got stuck closed, pump ran all the time and the pvc leak occurred?I just remember the pump running only when using water before for short periods. The gauge reads 60-65 while it runs… the pressure cutoff spec on the switch says 20 on 40 off. Who knows if it was adjusted higher but I see it get close to 70 and never cuts off
To be clear the pump was running 20 minutes straight with no water being used and the pressure saying 65 or 70
Are you manually shutting off the pump? Have you checked the pressure in your tank?
Yeah the pressure was like 28 I think in the tank… I shut the breaker off to the pump so it wouldn’t run all day destroying itself
At this point there are only about 3 things that could be wrong.
My first guess is: your air bladder in the tank is flooded.
Shut off main to house
Open faucet somewhere inside
Take off cap to the air valve for the tank (looks like the valve on a bike tire)
Pump it up to 60 psi with a bike pump or similar. Cap it.
Turn on main
Turn on pump
Less likely but very possible: you have a bad pressure switch
shut valve downstream of pump
turn on pump and let it run for 10 minutes or so
feel the pipe down stream of the pump…if it is getting warm then you have a bad pressure switch (or flow sensor), depending on your pump setup/type.
Less likely than above, but certainly possible…you have a bad pump controller. This is the brains…a control board gone bad. Verifying this is the same as above. I am not sure how I would distinguish between the two at the moment.
I dont know where you are in the country, but your local plumbing supply store should have parts. Also, some of the bigger plumbing contractors might parts in their truck or shop.
Turn water main back on.
My dad installed a booster pump in his house a couple years ago. It came with a bad control board from the factory.
You’re an awesome guy. Totally manly. Good info.