I’m thinking number one is the most likely… I’ll try that tomorrow and let you know… I already ordered a 30/50 pressure switch. The one on there now Is a 20/40. I read the procedure for setting the tank pressure and like you said I have to drain it first. So I’ll try that before I put the switch on. I’m still a little confused on how to determine what the preset pressure is suppose to be in the tank. You think set it to 60?
i think 60 is the general rule of thumb number.
thats what my dad has his set at…and that is what most residential plumbing operates around. My house house has about 68psi from the city.
When you have water pressure above 80 psi static, you start to see fixtures leaking and water hammer beating up the plumbing. Again, this is all just on my experience; I am no plumber. Just an engineer who works on his own stuff.
Well I have a 20/40 switch… according to the switch you set the tank pressure 2 psi lower than the cut in pressure which would be 18. I set this pressure after draining the lines. The pumps switch sill stays closed and runs indefinitely. Either I’m getting something wrong with the set procedure or the switch is bad… switch is only 20 bucks so I’ll try putting it on tomorrow and re doing the procedure and see what happens.
You have creating a cross connection causing back pressure that is pumping your well water into the city water system. You are contaminating the city water supply. Please stop. You need a back flow device.
Lol what the hell are you talking about… have you read this thread? I don’t have well water, it’s a booster pump
I’ve been busy building a chicken coop… got discouraged after that last repair attempt of setting the tank pressure. I have the new switch waiting to be installed , I’ll give it a shot this weekend. Whenever I take a shower I just turn the breaker on for the pump and then turn it off when I’m done. I’ll give it a shot this weekend and update