I surfed my first wave today...

Otherground
1

Moved to SB last year to go to rehab and get/stay sober from the bottle. After multiple relapses among other things, today I have 60 days sober. My roommate is a professional surfer so we took some boards out to Leadbetter and I surfed. I only caught one wave, but that one was sick to me. Obviously the size was nothing to write home about but finally one of my favorite sports went from spectator status to participant. And now I'm addicted to surfing! 

 

It was a good day today. I haven't started a thread on the OG in a lonnnnng time. 

 

Hope you all have a rad day today. Thanks for reading my bull shit vanity story. 

 

 

2

Congrats on both accounts sir. Surfing is addictive in a good way. 

3

TFK_Al Neri -

Congrats on your sobriety and catching the wave. Many good days as well as frustrating days ahead of you. Enjoy them both

Thanks bud! 

4

Congrats! Now get yourself down to Costa Rica. Just don't mess with any of the local ladies-- I hear they're also addictive ;)

5

Congrats Bro!

Let surfing be your addiction!

6

Congrats...pretty fitting, one of my favorite quotes is "you can't stop the wave, but you can learn to surf"

7

That is fantastic.  Keep at it and let each new, bigger wave be the celebration of your sobriety. 

 

8

Il never forget my first wave. Never fprget getting sober either. Both amazing life experiences. Congrats brother keep it up

9

Jmh420 - Il never forget my first wave. Never fprget getting sober either. Both amazing life experiences. Congrats brother keep it up

Thanks brother. It was surreal honestly. My roommate is insanely good. 

10

Hang Ten bro 

11

Awesome.... Lucky.. Wish I could try surfing one day..

12

Congrats on your 60 days. 

 

Keep working. 

 

Leadbetter is awesome. It's where I started surfing 35 years ago (and still go there with the family. 

 

I might even know your roommate. 

13

I've wanted to learn to surf forever. I just can't get the hang of getting up onto the board in time, lol. I was told it was all about upper body strength, and I'm barely above average in that category, but I'd always slip off the board. I'll probably never get it, lol.
Congrats on getting your first wave, even bigger congrats on your sobriety. Keep excelling in both buddy.

14

OJTT-RayRaysFunhouse - I've wanted to learn to surf forever. I just can't get the hang of getting up onto the board in time, lol. I was told it was all about upper body strength, and I'm barely above average in that category, but I'd always slip off the board. I'll probably never get it, lol.
Congrats on getting your first wave, even bigger congrats on your sobriety. Keep excelling in both buddy.

You can do it.  You just need chill small waves and a huge foam board.

15

kayNEIN -

Moved to SB last year to go to rehab and get/stay sober from the bottle. After multiple relapses among other things, today I have 60 days sober. My roommate is a professional surfer so we took some boards out to Leadbetter and I surfed. I only caught one wave, but that one was sick to me. Obviously the size was nothing to write home about but finally one of my favorite sports went from spectator status to participant. And now I'm addicted to surfing! 

 

It was a good day today. I haven't started a thread on the OG in a lonnnnng time. 

 

Hope you all have a rad day today. Thanks for reading my bull shit vanity story. 

 

 

Good on you. First time I ever surfed was a lesson in Waikiki. Loved it instantly. 

16

bells is bigger than waimea fyi

17

Right on, good shit bro! First on the agenda will be to learn how to swim efficiently, then surfing for me.

18

OJTT-RayRaysFunhouse - I've wanted to learn to surf forever. I just can't get the hang of getting up onto the board in time, lol. I was told it was all about upper body strength, and I'm barely above average in that category, but I'd always slip off the board. I'll probably never get it, lol.
Congrats on getting your first wave, even bigger congrats on your sobriety. Keep excelling in both buddy.

Just think armbar from the mount bro....well kind of any way lol

19

And congrats OP! That's some good stuff right there

20

Great another wanna be to crowd the lineup